2019 Salon Worldwide de la Lingerie & Interfilière – Letter from Paris


Photograph above by Eurovet.

“Steeped in wealthy historical past and savoir-faire, the lingerie narrative has encountered difficulties adapting to girls immediately. The result’s a muddle of phrases and concepts that confuses and distracts us all — and, extra necessary, alienates the buyer.”

With the slogan “Fall in Love with Your self,” it appeared attainable that the Salon Worldwide de la Lingerie & Interfilière, the annual commerce honest held final month in Paris, was lastly taking the lead and providing an surroundings for lingerie professionals to come back collectively in a collective change for the well-being of ladies. What higher alternative to construct relationships amongst manufacturers, consumers, designers and suppliers to assist the buyer really feel important and supported?

Pictures by Kathryn Kemp-Griffin except in any other case famous.

Alas, it’s difficult — that oft-cited standing replace on social media for while you’re unsure the place a relationship goes, or if there’s any relationship in any respect. “Difficult” applies right here as effectively. The lingerie trade has had an advanced relationship with the buyer for many years, professing to have girls’s greatest pursuits in thoughts whereas nonetheless controlling the narrative and dictating tendencies.

I’ve attended the Salon Worldwide de la lingerie for twenty-five years, taking part on each side of the aisle as an exhibitor, writer, visitor speaker, and as a reporter for The Lingerie Journal. I’ve observed a variety of adjustments in twenty-five years:

  • Traces for the loos and the concession traces are shorter. I as soon as needed to decide up my lunch by 10 a.m. earlier than the throngs descended, however the throngs have thinned significantly.
  • Much less music: Large manufacturers used to compete in opposition to one another in decibels. Open idea cubicles, acrobatic stunts and showy trend reveals have given method to areas designed to advertise secrecy and maintain folks out reasonably than invite them in.
  • Extra selection: The listing of lingerie classes has grown and it’s not sufficient to distinguish between Lingerie du Jour (daywear) and Lingerie de Nuit (nightwear). Our our bodies are additional dissected now to make room for Plus Sizes, Shapewear, Specialised lingerie, Bodywear, Timeless, Teenager, Luxurious, Vogue & Fashionable, Attractive, Traditional, Marriage ceremony, Vogue Loungewear, Low-price, Stocking and Tights, Equipment, and extra.
  • “Attractive” remains to be omnipresent together with a collective assumption that the phrase means the identical for all girls.
  • Extra pure supplies: Greater than a development, manufacturers and customers are dedicated to sustainability and creating trend that’s respectful of the surroundings.
  • Fewer lingerie commerce magazines: There was a dozen or extra shiny commerce magazines and on-line platforms devoted to the enterprise of lingerie. As the road continues to blur between commerce and shopper, solely these magazines in a position to join with each will survive.
  • Border management between the Salon de la Lingerie & Interfilière has ended. The area remains to be divided into two reveals — completed items on one facet and the makings of lingerie on the opposite — however it’s simpler now to cross from one to the opposite. Nonetheless, Interfilière is the beating coronary heart of the lingerie trade and it will be attention-grabbing to see it take middle stage, and for each reveals to develop into one.

I’ve to confess that, at first, the loud music, Champagne fountains, fashions in skimpy apparel and males peacocking was festive. That is Paris, in spite of everything, the Metropolis of Mild, the place love, romance, and lingerie are inextricably linked whereas remaining considerably mysterious. I longed to grasp the thriller. Over time I noticed that one of many causes lingerie stays an enigma to the skin world will not be due to its obscure previous and inexplicable secrets and techniques however as a result of these secrets and techniques lack relevance in immediately’s language and existence. Steeped in wealthy historical past and savoir-faire, the lingerie narrative has encountered difficulties adapting to girls immediately. The result’s a muddle of phrases and concepts that confuses and distracts us all — and, extra necessary, alienates the buyer.

As normal, this yr’s honest was sprawling and left guests to float and sift by the well-curated however limitless messaging. And, as normal, I couldn’t make whole sense of it.
Let’s take a stroll…

“Magnificence Has No Dimension”:

A powerful slogan and suave mural obtained misplaced on a wall in a void that was sparsely scattered with beanbag cushions. Painted by artist Lisa Colin, this highly effective and visible message may need linked and resonated with all lingerie professionals — and customers — had it been the official slogan, a singular message.

Physique Positivity:

Seizing on the zeitgeist, the honest touted “physique positivity” and even featured a token mannequin of a unique form who sashayed with confidence down the catwalk. Whereas she was fabulous and walked on behalf of all girls, her solitary presence, nevertheless, despatched a body-negative message, a singling out of a product class that gives an answer to a regrettable physique form. The trade has the means and the ability to steer the physique positivity motion and SHOW girls how lingerie can assist us join with ourselves.

Bra Becoming Workshop:

A compelling and provoking workshop led by American lingerie knowledgeable Kimmay Caldwell, who broke down the becoming course of into manageable and tangible examples that communicated and engaged with customers.

Designer of the 12 months:

Photograph by RemisedePrix.

Awarded to Chantelle Lingerie for his or her integrity, innovation, and model path. Design Director Renaud Cambuzat spoke of “new kinds of femininity avoiding any type of strict, stereotyped gender definition, celebrating the power and promise of our time.”

Choice:

One phrase, three catalogues: The Choice, The Choice Varieties, Development & Choice. You decide.

Tendencies:

The 2 development boards have all the time been central to this occasion, predicting what’s to come back and selling enterprise. Colours and materials in a single discussion board and … colours and materials within the different. Sound repetitive?

Voices:

Assume you’re listening to voices? You’re! The Emancipated Voice, The Loving Voice, The Daring Voice, and The Pure Voice have been all talking on the identical time in an effort to categorize and box-in the buyer with tendencies, colours, and nonsense trend messages akin to “She reconnects with the fluidity in lingerie.” Let’s discover our collective voice and converse to the buyer with that means.

The place Did the Client Go?

“After twenty-five years, maybe it’s not my position to try to perceive the trade; it’s the trade’s flip to try to perceive me, the buyer.”

Veteran development maven Jos Berry of Ideas Paris cautioned that we should not overlook the buyer, and advocates inclusivity. It’s a significant phrase with the ability to alter shopper motivation and habits, however it’s going to solely take maintain as soon as we really feel it throughout the trade.

A girl’s relationship along with her physique is usually ambiguous and fraught with insecurities. It’s an extended journey to acceptance for many people and lingerie can basically change how we really feel about our our bodies with out altering our our bodies. Nevertheless, as an alternative of guiding and supporting girls on this journey, the lingerie trade makes use of language to push product reasonably than create dialogue.

After twenty-five years, maybe it’s not my position to try to perceive the trade; it’s the trade’s flip to try to perceive me, the buyer.





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